Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.